Two Perfect Days

If you’re planning a cruise in the Baltic Sea, you’re likely old enough to remember such events as the Cuban Missile Crisis (1962), U.S. President Ronald Reagan and congressional conservatives characterizing Russia as the Evil Empire (1982) and the Cold War, which lasted until late 1991. Thus, visiting St. Petersburg for the first time may hold a mix of emotions for you — the intrigue of seeing one of the world’s greatest cities combined with apprehension of visiting a former enemy state.

But the world has changed dramatically over the past couple of decades, and Russia, or at least the city of St. Petersburg, is both welcoming and increasingly hospitable. Sure, the city could use infrastructure improvements (such as new highways to alleviate city center traffic), but even with its imperfections, 303-year-old St. Petersburg leaves visitors smitten. Continue Reading »

In a tiny cafe at one end of Gamla Stan’s Stortorget square, a frothy cappuccino serves as the centerpiece for a scene that is quintessentially Stockholm.

In the center of the oversized cup, coffee has been deliberately dripped onto the foamy realms to form a heart, an unintended icon that takes the same shape as Stockholm’s Old Town when seen from the lofty heights of City Hall Tower.

The Old Town, or Gamla Stan as it is known, has been a meeting place since 1252. Today, more than 800 years later, it continues to pulsate as the heart of Stockholm.

As on most days here at the uber-cozy, candlelit and tiny Chokladkoppen, espresso machines hiss as patrons poke their heads through the front door in hopes of finding a vacant table. Those sitting at the tables and those wanting to occupy them are all drawn here by the same primordial urge: the need to fika.

What’s fika? You’ll read about that in a moment. For now, stay with me. You’re about to learn how to spend two days that you’ll never forget in one of the world’s most beautiful — and fascinating — cities.
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Begin your day as you did yesterday, but on this gorgeous, sunny Stockholm day, you’ll exit the Radisson SAS Strand’s front door and head to your right instead of to your left.

Follow the water and the walkway that curves around the harbor. Take a moment to breathe in the view when you reach Skeppholmsbron (”bron” means “bridge”). Looking across Norrstrom harbor, you’re admiring the Royal Palace (you’re in a kingdom, remember, with a king, queen and princesses). You’re also looking at your next destination, Gamla Stan. Continue Reading »

Time, unfortunately, is not standing still as it is on the clock above in Gamla Stan, so get ready for a full day of touring at a respectable pace.

You’ll see a lot, but you’ll only skim Stockholm’s surface if you’re visiting for the day on a cruise that calls on the Swedish capital.

You’ll leave wanting more. So while you’re touring, know that you can’t see it all on this trip and plan to come back to cruise from Stockholm, arriving a few days before your cruise so that you can experience all that this wonderful city has to offer.

For now, however, here’s how to spend one perfect day in port, without overwhelming yourself. Continue Reading »

Nearly two decades since the Iron Curtain opened, this metropolis of 3.4 million embraces modern life on the cutting edge. The city’s free-spirited ambiance is flush with constant change and an exciting appeal for visitors.

Nothing speaks more to Berlin’s cultural division than the words intoned by my guide: “She is so East Berlin,” complained Andre Sommerfeld (pictured), responding to the stern woman who had barked at us for running a red light on bicycles.

There was no traffic to hinder us, no cars to run us down, but that didn’t matter. East Berliners grew up learning to follow the rules, and even though things have changed dramatically in the past two decades, many Ossis (as the East Germans are colloquially called) still have an inherent sense to always obey authority. They wait at crosswalks, they stand patiently in lines.

Many of them, Andre says, still have the “Mauer im Kopf” or “the wall in the head.” To get a sense of what they’re like, think of the Italians and imagine their opposites.

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Over lunch at Berlin’s trendy Restaurant Diekmann at Weinhaus Huth, Nicole Röbel tells a story that grandparents might tell their grandchildren.

“We had no phone when I was a child,” she says, after finishing a bite of her Nicoise salad. She speaks of a childhood characterized by deprivation, with small rewards only on special occasions. When she performed well on her report card, for example, her parents sometimes took her to a special bakery, Intershop. It was an exceptionally rare extravagance. Smiling, she says, “I still remember the smell of the shop and the fresh-baked goods.” Continue Reading »

How do you experience the real Berlin? Nicole Röbel (pictured), who represents Berlin’s official tourism department, lists five things visitors must do to say they’ve truly been to Berlin. Continue Reading »

Facts: Opened in 2005, this strikingly modern hotel, distinguished by its tapering limestone exterior, was designed inside and out by renowned Berlin architect Jan Kleihues. Hotel Concorde makes an elegant and luxurious welcoming statement as one of Berlin’s five-star hotels. Centrally located off the fashionable Kurfuerstendamm and near several leading attractions, Hotel Concorde exudes contemporary European sophistication in its public spaces as well as in the guest rooms.

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As a clefs d’Or concierge at Hotel Concorde Berlin, Martin Rucinska’s knowledge of the German capital is more complete than any guide book you could purchase. His advice for getting the most from your Berlin visit:

Soak Up Some Opera: Berlin has the luxury of three opera houses but Staatsoper is THE opera house. It has the longest history and some of the best performances.

The other opera houses also are quite good.

• Daniel Barenboim conducting at the Staatskapelle Berlin is a magnet for opera lovers.
• Deutsche Oper, in the former west part Berlin, is the largest opera house and is known for its successful yet more conservative productions.
• Komische Oper in Mitte-area has been voted opera house of the year just recently. Though the operas are performed only in German, the productions are young, modern, provocative and extremely successful.

Want to go? Contact a clefs d’Or concierge at Hotel Concorde Berlin before leaving home to ensure you get good seats.

Martin’s tip: In August, Staatsoper broadcasts opera performances on the huge screen on Bebelplatz — free of charge. Grab a bottle of red wine, some snacks and a blanket and enjoy a summer evening with the stars under the stars.

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When you’re in Berlin, don’t miss Dresden. Only a little more than two hours by train from Berlin’s central rail station, Dresden serves up an engaging variety of historic architecture, museums and sightseeing opportunities. Continue Reading »